En Attendant Isabel, Hairy Like The Wolf, And More…
The English are coming, the English are coming! Oh—no, wait, …

Karl Lagerfeld quashes any Chanel departure rumors once and for all. “I will die here,” he told the Times before his Couture show last night, which is as unequivocal as it gets. [NYT]
Lindsay Lohan is having a bad day. Her self-tanning products are a knockoff (allegedly), and her refusal of a role in The Hangover could be the end of her career. So much for that golden glow. [People]
Images are lacking, but details on Jil Sander’s collection for Uniqlo are surfacing. Called +J, the line looks like it will adhere to a minimalist aesthetic, which is to say, “Duh.” [WWD]—Alison Baenen
Photo: Monica Feudi / Gorunway.com
When you’re sitting at a runway show, even in the front row, the starring role often goes to the clothes. But let’s talk about the all-important action below the ankle with our first installment of The Shoe In.
Prada gave us a literal moment of clarity with clear-heel sandals dripping with fat chandelier crystals, and her see-through pointy-toe Mary Janes. One totally clear pair looked like the footwear version of Wonder Woman’s invisible jet. Their practicality is somewhat arguable, but they do seem to have handy Velcro closures.
Yesterday at Jil Sander, Raf Simons’ arty inspirations made the most sense in shoe form, like this sculptural number crafted from wood, oxidized metal, and chic navy suede. Blow that thing up 1,000 times and you could send it to Storm King.
And lastly there was Versace’s glam-slam journey down a Tim Burton rabbit hole that gave us this nutty futuro-baroque number. What do you think of Milan’s shoe scene so far? Comments welcome below.—Meenal Mistry
Photo: Don Ashby and Olivier Claisse
This season’s runway tracks were a schizophrenic medley, veering from hardcore rap and opera to techno and old-school country—occasionally, all in a single show. Here, a selection of Milan’s music to watch clothes by.
Prada
Breakout Track: Brenda Lee’s All Alone Am I
The Final Note: Lee’s plaintive and sweet fifties-era croonings were mixed up with rap and classical tunes. Well, you wouldn’t expect a single musical message from Prada, would you?
Alberta Ferretti
Breakout Track: Puccini’s Oh Mio Babbino Caro from the 1918 opera Gianni Schicchi
The Final Note:Uplifting and emotional Italian drama that could move you to tears. A moving way to take in the romantic, gauzy parade.
Jil Sander
Breakout Track: Jerry Garcia’s Love Scene Improvisations from Zabriskie Point
The Final Note: Garcia’s twangy, free-form guitar came from the NSFW scene from the 1970’s Antonioni film, shown on screens during the runway proceedings. The result? An aptly arty, earthy, and cultish backdrop to Raf Simons’ rough-hewn intellectualism.
Bottega Veneta
Breakout Track: Pianist Maxence Cyrin’s version of Don’t You Want Me?
The Final Note: Eighties pop merged with classical piano. A high-low mix that’s so appropriate for modern wares made with old-school artisanship.
Dolce & Gabbana
Breakout Track: Grace Jones’ remake of Rita Hayworth classic Amado Mio
The Final Note: Neo-Latin romance with an avant-garde edge. Right on point, boys.
Gucci
Breakout Track:The Gossip’s Heavy Cross
The Final Note: A energetic yet tough pop hit from the band’s latest album. In other words, a soundtrack made for the Gucci girl’s direct, turbo-charged look.—Jasmine Serrurier
Photo: Px18/Wireimage
As the retail and editorial flocks make their way by plane and train (Cathy Horyn) to Paris, another bit of drama is about to unfold: the return this Thursday of fashion deity Jil Sander with the highly anticipated debut of her Uniqlo collection +J. We’re going to be hitting Uniqlo down in Soho on the very early side, and luckily for all those who are Paris-bound, the Japanese retailer is opening its first European store to coincide with the launch. Located at 17 Avenue de l’Opéra, it’s quite conveniently a hop and skip away from the Tuileries. It’ll be interesting to see editors rush to pick up the new cheap-and-chic Jil wares on a day when they’ll also be seeing runway action of some of the most expensive stuff out there: Balenciaga, Balmain, Rick Owens. Our plan is stock up on the unbelievably perfect cardis, a couple of buttoned-up shirts, and at least one coat—either pea or Chesterfield. Or maybe both. At any rate, we’ll keep you posted on the minimalist mayhem.—Meenal Mistry
Jil Sander’s highly anticipated collection for Uniqlo debuted this morning. At nine o’clock in Soho, while editors gathered for a pre-shopping event, there was a line that reached clear down to the store’s fast-fashion Broadway neighbor H&M. By all accounts, it’s still going strong. Meanwhile, in Paris, by the time the Japanese retailer’s first-ever European flagship opened its doors at noon, traffic was snarled all the way up the Boulevard Haussmann and the line snaked all the way down the Rue Scribe and around the block. (That’s a scene inside the Avenue de l’Opéra store pictured above.)
“I’m surprised all these people care so much about Jil Sander,” said one New York editor while exiting the Soho store. It’s a fair question, since Sander’s high-fashion line wasn’t really about exciting the masses. Nevertheless, the collection has received (and deserves) high praise for delivering on its promises of beautifully done, inexpensive fashion. We’re not naming names, but many past collaborations are great on paper but disappointing in reality. At any rate, don’t worry if you didn’t get down to a Uniqlo near you, Sander’s involvement with the brand is long-term, and it feels pretty good, to say the least, to have her back.—Meenal Mistry and Tina Isaac
Photo: Eric Piermont/AFP/Getty Images

Random designer news from last night’s CFDA party at the Ace Hotel for the organization’s new Assouline-published book, American Fashion Menswear: Italo Zucchelli confirmed that, after last winter’s successful experiment, he will again be showing his Fall Calvin Klein menswear in New York in February (Milan remains his venue of choice for his Spring collections). The famously organized Zucchelli (”I learned that at Jil Sander”) has already designed the whole Fall range—so there, slackers. Rag & Bone’s Marcus Wainwright and David Neville, meanwhile, are off to London, where Liberty is holding a dinner for them on Thursday night (stay tuned for our coverage). The only downside for Neville? The die-hard Yankees fan (well, as die-hard as anyone born in the U.K. could be) would miss Game 7 of the World Series, should the Bronx Bombers fail to close tonight. And, finally, Jeff Halmos and Sam Shipley can’t get over how quickly their stuff sold out on Gilt Man, the online retailer that was a co-host of the party.
Photo: NEIL RASMUS/PatrickMcMullan.com

What’s black and white and, uh, lilac all over? Jil Sander’s new +J line for Uniqlo. Coats and tops will come in shiny, sweet pastels like mauve and pink (and, fear not, minimalists—plenty of somber shades, too). Prices range from $44 to $164, roughly, and the line will be in-store in mid-March and again in April. We’re feeling warmer already. [WWD]
Lacoste loves croc so much, it’s spending a half-million dollars to protect its trademark animal. Save Your Logo, a global initiative aimed at companies with iconic furry, feathered, or four-legged friends, is spearheading attempts to protect endangered species. [WWD]
Kate Moss will not be trifled with. The model-mogul, who penned a few songs with ex Pete Doherty, has joined the U.K.’s Performing Rights Society to ensure she receives all due royalties from her work, past and future. Please add “Kate Moss’ debut album” to your 2010 wish list. [WWD]
The SATC girls do desert-chic in their next film, with turbans and caftans aplenty. Eye roll? Sure, but you know you want to see a few shots from the trailer anyway. [Daily Mail]
—Alison Baenen
Photo: Warner Bros. Pictures / www.thedailymail.co.uk

Hairchitecture—now there’s a concept that rings out loud and clear for a new decade of experimental style. The men’s shows in Milan previewed the notion with the reflective lacquer at Versace, the slicked-back-and-forwards at Ferré, the quiffs at Jil Sander, and, most of all, the teddy boy’s d.a. (stands for duck’s ass) at Bottega Veneta, ingeniously shoved skyward by star hairchitect Guido Palau.
Pictured, clockwise from top left: Versace; Gianfranco Ferré; Bottega Veneta; Jil Sander.—Tim Blanks
Photos: Andrew Thomas

Heart on your sleeve? Inadvisable. But soul on your finger? That we can get behind. Just in time for Valentine’s Day, Jil Sander has released its new Soul collection of rings, crafted in Italy and available only at the label’s online shop. The chunky silver and enamel design (in black, pink, yellow, orange, and blue) is surprisingly sprightly for a house better known for minimalism and quieter palettes. ‘Tis the season to think pink? Husbands/boyfriends out there, trust me: This’ll go farther than roses.
$540, available exclusively at www.jilsander.com.
Plus, for more Valentine’s options, check out our shopping guide.
—Matthew Schneier
Photo: Courtesy of Jil Sander
Joseph Altuzarra’s résumé may be short, but it packs a solid one-two-three punch: six-month internship at Marc Jacobs, freelance design assistant for Proenza Schouler, and former assistant to New York’s premier modéliste Nicolas Caito. That’s the CV in a nutshell, which all leads up to part four: designer for his eponymous line launched for Spring 2009. Given his pedigree, it should come as no surprise that Altuzarra’s name has emerged as fashion’s new one to know. Yet the designer himself is still nonplussed by the attention. “I never planned to work in fashion,” explains Altuzarra, who was born and raised in France and moved to the U.S. to study at Swarthmore. “I was an art history major who sent his résumé to Marc Jacobs on a whim. I feel like I’ve spent the past few years playing catch-up, learning what goes into making a dress.” Clearly, the 25- year-old designer is a quick study. Fashion’s inner circles championed his first collection, which he showed privately last season. Now Altuzarra is going public. He’ll be staging his fashion week debut with a presentation on February 16. “Mostly I’m continuing to develop ideas I started for Spring,” says Altuzarra of the upcoming collection. “I’m a real child of the nineties in that I look to designers like Helmut Lang and Jil Sander for inspiration. They never got into anything too theme-y. It was all about making clothes that were just functional and attractive. I like working that way.” His favorite compliment comes via his clientele: when a woman says a dress makes her feel beautiful. The trick to making clothes that boost confidence, he notes, is often in the cut. “You know, a dress can be constructed in such a way that it literally makes the person wearing it stand up straighter,” he says. As for the designer himself, he’s getting a shot of confidence from his collaborators this season—fellow talented up-and-comer Eddie Borgo is designing jewelry for the presentation, and Fall 2009 marks the debut of Altuzarra for Gianvito Rossi shoes. “I like working with people who are at the start of their careers,” says Altuzarra. “That way, it’s not like anyone’s doing you a favor. And you all get to grow up and succeed together.”
—Maya Singer